Dolce & Gabbana’s Kiss Us Silver And Gold With Their FW21 Men’s Collection
Tearsheet by Caitriona Moran
We cannot discuss Dolce and Gabbana’s Men’s FW21 runway show in Milan without marking its occurrence during a pandemic. The show was meant to take place with an audience and celebrity guests from far and wide, and when that proved impossible due to the pandemic, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, rather than let the situation limit them, pushed past all boundaries, and presented a spontaneous, glorious vision of togetherness without actually being physically together. This should not surprise us given that these designers began their first runway show for their collection, Real Women, using friends as models and a bed sheet from home as a stage curtain. They do not let financial constraints, nor pandemics, get in the way of their vision. In fact, they use these obstacles as platforms to push off from and jump into the future. They are fearless, as is this collection, in its bold, joyful effusive use of glitter, gold lamé and all things reflective. Their silhouette has evolved from fitted and neat to broader, longer lines but their immaculate tailoring is as evident as always. Reminiscent of Dolce and Gabbana’s original simplicity of friends, family, and a runway, this show reflects (both literally and figuratively) their original sentiments as well as decades of expertise and a shimmering eye toward innovation.
Runway show front rows for such successful designers as Dolce and Gabbana are usually shining with celebrity guests, but the celebrity presence was felt even more in this virtual format with their images and messages evident as a grand backdrop to the show itself. Dolce and Gabbana’s statement that they are “far away, but more united than ever” certainly rings true and exemplifies their Italian culture rooted in family and community. Celebrity messages pre-show echo the sentiments emblazoned on some of the designs; One head to toe graphic look comprised of a crewneck sweater, D&G logo baroque pearl belt, leggings, and logo printed ultra-high-top sneakers is a walking message that quite literally spells out love, security, good vibes, and all the things we aspire to now and in the future (look 77).
There was a lofty list of celebrity virtual attendees from singers such as Gwen Stefani, J. Balvin, The Vamps, and Maren Morris to actors, including Sofia Vergara, Angela Bassett, and Ester Expósito. Also appropriately included were TikTok and social media personalities such as Blake Gray and Loren Gray who represent the youth subculture that inspired this collection. Noted sports figures, Conor McGregor, Paul Pogba, and Alessandro Florenzi’s virtual attendance was complemented by several sporty looks in the collection, our favorite being matching silver rhinestone tank top and boxing shorts accessorized with baroque pearl lined fingerless boxing gloves and layered silver logo chain necklaces (look 43).
The collection celebrates “the different ways we express ourselves, together,” as Dolce and Gabbana explain, which is certainly evidenced by this celebrity list.
The effervescent collection, being inspired by “the way young people communicate digitally and express themselves freely,” is complemented by “e-boy” styling with bold makeup and painted nails. This subculture emerged from TikTok to challenge the “VSCO girl” image seen on Instagram. The e-boy and e-girl aesthetic has dominated celebrity culture, popular music, and fashion over the past few years. The subculture was first popularized in the early 2000s and has re-emerged with social media. Interestingly enough, the FW21 Men’s collection is vaguely reminiscent of Dolce and Gabbana’s FW03 Women’s collection in all of its gold lamé glory, utility straps and clips, and techno influence. Dolce and Gabbana, with this collection, have invented a new form of elegance that combines this recurring subculture with classic tailoring and lavish silver and gold accessories. Digitized pop futurism is also magnified through the use of distortion-effect fabric in many of the looks. One look in particular is composed of a distortion-effect wo0l mohair jacquard pullover, laminated purple wool canvas trousers, and slippers made of ecological fur. Another look includes distortion-effect denim made with a unique painting technique, a hologram-printed bomber jacket on a silver background, a distortion-effect jacquard crewneck pullover and graffiti printed DG Daymaster sneakers (look 68 and 35). Pixelating images at the onset of the show is a clever nod to digitization and sets the scene for the oncoming looks.
Dolce and Gabbana’s Italian sartorial traditions in tailoring and classic lines are certainly not hidden but are artfully layered over lamé shirts to tie in the more futuristic elements. The opening look features a double-breasted suit jacket and trousers in a mix of different iconic patchwork pinstripes and jeweled buttons, a black lamé silk shirt and a clutch featuring the new crossed Dolce and Gabbana logo (look 1) which serves to represent impeccable tailoring as the brand’s staple. Leopard print has also graced the Dolce and Gabbana runway practically every season and this show follows suit.
A look features a grey and black leopard printed wool jacket and trousers with a lamé jacquard shirt with a silver bow and matching coal chrome Daymaster sneakers (look 87). This ensemble is particularly striking for its styling; the model touts a bright red lip, blue eyeshadow, and blush to round off the elevated e-boy look. At Dolce and Gabbana's essence is the duo's ability to contrast features balancing point and counterpoint in an ever-evolving aesthetic that grows from strong roots to limitless heights.
Italian excess is merged with Italian classic as a model walks down the runway in an oversized gold laminated nylon down jacket, matching trousers, and caged-inspired sneakers (look 16). In delightful contrast to this excess is the more nonchalant sprezzatura look possibly inspired by the tendency toward lounge wear during the pandemic.
A blue striped patchwork button down shirt and pants are overlaid by a white wool cardigan and accessorized with pink ecological fur slippers in the perfect representation of how we wish we looked during quarantine (look 44). Many pieces are accented with hanging signature Baroque pearls and gold detailed chain DG eyewear. Of note are the many swinging chains, silver, gold, and jeweled that give the show such movement and remind us how we are all linked together, but not chained down.
Justin Bieber’s “Anyone” serves as an under beat lifting the show higher and higher. The lyric “dance with me under the diamonds” plays as the show is resplendent with light and glowing with silver and gold. A performance of “Together” by Sia closes the production as the collection’s bright hues are reflected from a mirrored floor in a kaleidoscope of brilliance. It has been said that this collection was unexpected, but in hindsight, we think we would expect nothing less from Dolce and Gabbana.
In an exclusive collaboration with Farfetch, many pieces from the FW21 Men’s collection are now available online. FARFETCH, for the first time ever, streamed the DG fashion show and approximately 20 pieces from the collection available for exclusive purchase now. The collection can also be viewed in its entirety on dolcegabbana.com and farfetch.com.
Article by Tessa Swantek, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
