Diamonds Are Forever-And So Are The ‘90s: Dolce And Gabbana’s FW21 Women’s Collection
In Dolce & Gabbana's teaser for their FW21 Women's Collection, a robot designed by the renowned Istituto Italiano di Tecnologia discovers the world of fashion at the Dolce & Gabbana studio. It is enveloped in a technicolor trance of swirling, glitching colors, bouncing baroque pearls, long gold layered chains, rhinestones, leopard print, and a reflective rainbow puffer coat, all orchestrated by the deft hands of maestros Dolce and Gabbana. A newspaper’s headline reads “The 90s in Fashion,” pointing us to a time with which Dolce and Gabbana are very familiar; it is the period when their brand ascended to iconic status. Their unique Mediterranean style combined with feminine sensuality seeped into the world of pop culture donned by Madonna, Prince, and top models of the decade. For those who have not lived it, however, this decade exists only as an idea. Our robot, like the new generation, yearns to experience this era, living it and yet transforming it to match a modern aesthetic. The FW21 Women's Collection brings the past into the present in an innovative design so we can all move into the future together. The collection, woven like precious metals in glowing lamé spins gold, purple, blue and silver from the threads of the past into our dreams of the future.
As we view Dolce and Gabbana's new collection, we should understand the lens through which it was envisioned- the lens of tradition and innovation. The collection “reveals how technology and craftsmanship, two apparently different worlds, come together in a celebration of Fatto a Mano.” Many artisans fear that technology will be the end of craftsmanship, but as Dolce and Gabbana eloquently illustrate in their teaser, technology is not an enemy replacing the human hand, it is a human creation made to facilitate human creativity. As Dolce states in a press conference introducing the line, "Tradition has no meaning if there is no innovation and innovation has no meaning if there is no tradition.” Dolce and Gabbana understand what so many other artisans do not: we must reinvent to remain alive. Technology and craftsmanship are not adversaries. When embraced, technology aids craftsmanship and is the beginning of a beautiful new world- one of opulence, inclusion, and celebration- it is #TheNextChapter.
The relationship between today’s social media models and the supermodels of the ‘90s is reflected in the seeming dichotomy between technology and craftsmanship. Yet, Dolce and Gabbana, in their distinctive style of merging contrasting themes, are able to unite the two in a harmonious collaboration. As in their Men’s FW21 collection, they were inspired by the e-boy and e-girl, one who exists on the internet in a unique display of self merging several styles from goth and harnesses to rainbow hair, nails, and makeup. They are a reflection of a potpourri of styles as if they were “shot through the internet, in all of its niches and possibilities, and came out the other side” (VOX). This individuality is synonymous with the new generation, and was also seen in the top models of the ‘90s who “ushered in a paradigm shift as self-made women who entered model searches and walked into agencies without a man on their side to do their bidding'' (Independent). The presence and attitude of the ‘90s supermodel was palpable, and that same intangible presence can be found in the e-girl. Dolce and Gabbana merge the two and form a version of a woman who is just as powerful but can express herself through the lens of what she personally finds appealing as opposed to what might appeal to others.
Rather than repeating the past, this collection reimagines it. One look in particular references the ‘90s supermodels in bold black print on a white tee, gold D&G logo belt, and black leggings (look 73). This look evokes similar imagery from Dolce and Gabbana’s ss92 women's collection that features supermodels in tees with red rhinestone lettering atop black shorts, but instead of black garters and stockings, white thigh high sneakers mimic mechanical robot legs that walk us into the future. This futuristic vision is exemplified through a look that gives a sly nod to the ‘90s with “‘90s SUPERMODEL'' printed on the collar amidst a riot of colorful graffiti emblazoned on a puffer coat worn over a similarly graffitied bodycon dress. True to the DNA of Dolce and Gabbana, the dress is layered over their iconic black bra and the coat is lined with leopard print. (look 21). With this look, we see the progression of the Dolce and Gabbana aesthetic from the still relevant ‘90s version of sexy to the more hedonistic version of the new generation where we unashamedly write our own rules, and then break them.
Speaking of which, Madonna, a notorious rule breaker, wore a multicolored bejeweled bodysuit in 1991 that is updated here and paired with digital effect coated trousers that seem to liquidly reflect the jewels in a river that runs from the past to the present (look 19). Similarly, Dolce and Gabbana’s diamond studded bodysuit, famously worn by Naomi Campbell in the ‘90s, is brought back (diamonds are forever you know) but with a splash of e-girl orange and green eyeshadow on top of black winged liner and a bold red lip (look 129). Traditional silhouettes are met with innovative fabrics; a double breasted collarless jacket, a brand tailored staple, features robot-effect square shoulders in black wool canvas, baroque pearl buttons, black corset boots, and DG eyewear that resemble virtual reality glasses (look 93). The maximalism and Italian excess of the collection shows Dolce and Gabbana’s ability to fill the cup right to the brim without letting it spill over. Their expertise with layering and color combinations evolves into a kaleidoscopic TV-distorted explosion resulting in an oversized, multi-coloured, printed nylon down jacket, a laminated ribbed knit tank top, printed jeans featuring digital lettering, a faux fur hat with the Dolce and Gabbana logo and a transparent visor influenced by the current pandemic. (look 12). The glitch effect is representative of an intentional image error; Periphery magazine asks “What does it mean if we can reclaim the ‘errors’ in our computers, phones, and cameras and repurpose them as our tools? Humans subject themselves to technology and exert control over it to a greater or lesser extent to produce a piece of artwork that is a product of both the creator’s intention and the device’s whims” (Periphery Magazine). Dolce and Gabbana’s final product is resplendent with this very notion.
Tailored patchwork jackets mimic those seen on the runways of the ‘90s; a white patchwork oversized suit jacket with robot-effect shoulders and transparent DG eyewear brings futuristic flair to Naomi Campbell’s 1992 patchwork suit (Look 41). Another oversized patchwork coat is paired with holographic ankle boots, a gold metal choker and galvanic gold bijoux earrings made with a mix of pearls and crystals (Look 38). Pearls, being the symbol of everlasting love and loyalty as well as freshness and newness, are representative of Dolce and Gabbana’s love for traditional values but are also a bold nod to the new. This sentiment is captured perfectly by our favorite look of the collection- a chain mini dress made entirely of oversized pearls accessorized with pearl necklaces and earrings and gold holographic boots (Look 109).
The show opens with a platform rising and revealing a prism of color with light refracting into vibrant glittering streams while the robot directs models onto the runway. In the closing, the range of color coalesces into a silver stream of light reflected from rhinestone bustiers, jackets, boots, handbags, and dresses (looks 131, 132, 135). Robots adorned in chains of silver, gold, and pearls lead a harmonious monochromatic charge into the future where technology and Fatto a Mano work hand in hand. Dolce and Gabbana, if this is the next chapter, we can’t wait to read the rest of this book, and we hope it never ends!
Article by Tessa Swantek, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets: Caitriona Moran, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
