Saya Zalel
Saya Zalel is a New York City-based fashion designer for whom the prevalence of tulle, sequins, and florals give her collections a high fashion yet playful feel. The silhouettes, cutouts in and sheerness of her pieces exposing different parts of the body. This adds flare to her designs.
Why did you decide to go to graduate school?
The initial decision to take a sudden turn in my life and move to the place I never visited did not come to me in a sudden moment of clarity. It was more of a small idea that slowly developed since I left my home country back in 2012. I lived and studied fashion for 4.5 years in Dubai at Heriot-Watt University before going to Parsons. However, I always wanted to live in New York City because it is the city that resonates with my vision. It has a many-faceted environment, a combination of power and chaos, but at the same time translates beauty. It also happens to be one of the fashion capitals of the world. I decided to go to the MFA fashion design and society program to challenge myself as a designer since it is a highly competitive program in which to get accepted. I was lucky to be a part of a small group of professionals. The Master’s program at Parsons has one of the most established reputations in the fashion industry.
Did you always know that you wanted to be in fashion?
Ironically, no. I graduated from a music school and started playing violin when I was five years old. I was planning to pursue a career as a violinist. Although I decided to quit and try to express myself in a new medium form, and my pick was fashion.
What draws you to tulle and sequins?
I am a textile-driven designer. I put a lot of emphasis on handwork and craft. I always begin with the vision of textile or embroidery, and only then it becomes a garment. I construct the garment to fit the body through an intuitive design process. My embroidery technique can be compared to a painting process; it is indeed a free flow, it is not planned, and an end result of embroideries is what creates the final silhouette and designs. I also love how the spray of tulle adds volume and sheerness to my designs.
How do you hope your clothing makes your wearers feel?
I believe everything is energy and all of the clothing I create transmits my personal energy and vibes, and through this expression, I want my wearers to feel that special something that cannot be seen only with their eyes.
What draws you to the abundance of vibrant colors you use?
I used to live in the subtle palette paradigm, the way I dressed and my first collections, but I came to a point where I started incorporating colors and realized that it is what I genuinely enjoy. The mix of colors for me comes out naturally.
Do you feel like your work reflects you? If so, how so?
I’ve always been curious about slow fashion, handwork, craftsmanship, and unique things that take time and knowledge in their making. My core inspiration comes from my Kazakh heritage and its philosophy, which explores the idea of chaos and control—transforming chaos into balance through the use of beauty. Exploring traditional costume and artisanal techniques such as wet felting and embroidery, I wanted to embrace the tension between cultural values and my aesthetic, constantly finding the balance in the chaos. Living in Kazakhstan, Dubai, Edinburgh, and New York City and being exposed to various cultures has a deep footprint on my creative thinking and perception of the world. I draw inspiration from my family, culture, and personal experiences, constantly challenging the values around beauty and the accepted norms.
Your work now is very cohesive. Do you see yourself ever straying away from the current look?
The looks might change in the future because we are all evolving based on our experiences. Still, the essence of my brand of exploring and communicating craftsmanship, handwork, culture, and nomad soul will always remain.
What are your goals for the brand?
Before the pace of fashion slowed down, I always emphasized the importance of conscious production, craft and support local artisans from the Post-Soviet countries such as Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan. Currently, I am working on my new collection, in which I incorporate upcycling and cultural elements from my home country with the help of local artisans.
Could you see yourself branching out from fashion design in the future?
I believe a person can be successful in many different paths of careers. It is all about the intention and message of the artist, but it can be presented in various forms. Who knows, maybe someday I will use a violin as one of them.
What are your socials? @SAYAZALEL
Where to Buy: https://fave.co/3xUUvbC
Article by Bridget McDonald, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Kenisha Seth, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
