It's Not A Bag, It's A Birkin

Last week, Travis Scott was spotted carrying a brown-crocodile-leather Birkin bag, a Haut à courroies to be exact. This certainly isn’t the first time we’ve seen a Birkin in the spotlight however, as the legendary bag has been seen in the hands of celebrities like Victoria Beckham, Gigi Hadid, and even North West. It has also been featured in shows like “Sex and the City.” One of the bags more notable performances came from “Gilmore Girls,” when Rory is gifted a Birkin, and quickly learns it’s not just a bag. So, if you’re ever lucky enough to be receiving one, here is everything you need to know about the coveted Hermès Birkin bag.

It’s only fitting that the idea for one of the most sought-after handbags in the world practically fell from the sky. In 1984, on an Air France flight from Paris to London, Hermès Executive Chairman Jean-Louis Dumas was sitting next to British actress, and soon-to-be namesake of the bag, Jane Birkin, whose belongings had just fallen out of her straw bag. Dumas suggested to the actress that a bag with pockets would be more convenient, and when her reply was that Hermès didn’t make one, Dumas responded, “I am Hermès.” Birkin then described a bag which was larger than Hermès’s original Kelly bag, but smaller than her suitcase, and thus the Birkin was born.

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Today, the Birkin is sold in four classic sizes (25-, 30-, 35-, and 40-centimeters) and two traveling bags, which come in 50- and 55-centimeters. Similar in shape and design to the single-handled Kelly handbag, the Birkin, which has two handles, is meant to be carried in the crook of your arm. The Birkin come in a plethora of colors and materials from classic black-leather to hot-pink ostrich, and all the way to the Himalaya Crocodile Birkin, a style which features diamonds on the clasps, and has sold for upwards of $400,000.

While the bag is designed to be easy to carry, that may be the only easy thing about it! A true investment piece, the Birkin handbag retails anywhere from $9,000 to $500,000 and pre-owned bags run the same price-range at auction. All good things come to those who wait, and a Birkin is no exception to this rule. You won’t find the Birkin for sale on the Hermès website, instead, you must request to be put on the waitlist to purchase one. In addition to the daunting waitlist, Hermès limits the number of Birkin’s individuals can buy each year. Right now, there are about 200,000 Birkin bags in circulation, each one handcrafted by a single artisan at a Hermès workshop. The bags take about 48 hours to make and, if cared for correctly, are certainly made to last a lifetime, if not multiple.

There have been some fun innovations made to the classic Birkin along the way, and Hermès certainly plays favorites when it comes to showing off its poster child, highlighting three renditions of the original bag. In 2009, Hermès released the Birkin Shadow, in which designer Jean Paul Gaultier reconceptualized the original geometry of the bag. Gaultier played on the trompe-l’œil with illusions created with the side straps. Described as “A Birkin bag of mischief,” the Birkin Shadow is a playful rendition of the classic construction.

The Birkin Faubourg is one of my favorite editions of the bag, as it is modeled after Hermès flagship at 24 Rue du Faubourg, complete with the illusion of awnings and even pavement. This bag brings a sense of youthfulness to a storefront that has been around since 1880, but still maintaining the reputation for opulence, boasting five different leathers. After 35 years of Birkin production, the Birkin Faubourg not only introduced a new 20-centimeter size, but also paid homage to the place Hermès has called home since 1880.

As 2020 brought many misfortunes, it also brought a new style of Birkin: The Cargo. Emphasizing the bag’s original purpose of practicality, the Birkin Cargo has five outer pockets and even a cup holder! Hermès ensured that the Birkin Cargo could truly go anywhere by tightly stitching together smooth, swift leather and canvas, marking this bag their first off-road bag.

When buying a bag for which you could take a second mortgage out on, it’s important to do your research to ensure you are getting the bag of your dreams. So, whether you prefer to go big like Travis Scott, or take 24 Faubourg everywhere you go, your Birkin will be sure to turn heads wherever you take it. Now you know, it’s not a bag, it’s a Birkin.


Article by Katie Harkey, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Kenisha Seth, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine