FANG, a menswear brand based in New York City, celebrates “the feeling of being masculine, feminine, and everything in between. Founded by Fang Guo, FANG creates gender-expansive and body-conscious designs. The brand continuously challenges toxic masculinity with form-fitting garments and traditionally feminine silhouettes. Earlier this month, FANG launched its first swimwear capsule collection.

Why did you want to start FANG?
I was really frustrated with the lack of diversity in menswear in terms of the type of clothes it offers. I remember an experience when I was shopping at the men’s section in a department store; it was in a dim-lit basement (men’s department always is), and everything I saw was either boring formalwear or shapeless sportswear. This’s when I had my “ah-hah” moment; I just thought that I can do so much better and share my unique aesthetic and approach to dressing to the world. How you present yourself is so important and informs a lot about your identity, whether that’s gender, sexuality, age, ethnic background, etc. Ultimately, I want people to feel good and special with what I have to offer. I want the silhouettes, shapes, fabrics, and colors in the FANG collections to celebrate all bodies who wear them.

Why did you choose to specialize in knitwear?
Knitwear is my favorite category of clothing. It is not only comfortable it is also forgiving on the body, and shapes/ hugs the body in an interactive way. Because of the lenient and flexible construction nature of knitwear, it fits a range of physiques (for example, someone who is a Size Small and another a Size Large could potentially share the same size within my line because of the lenient and forgiving nature of the designs. The shape-defining pieces are not just a fashion statement, they are also a stance on "loving the body you are in"; women have long embraced their bodies more than men sporting compression athleisure wear the likes of crop tops and two pieces regardless of their body types. Toxic masculinity has taught men not to love their bodies but rather to hide them. I wanted to use knitwear to turn this mindset on its head for menswear. I think it would be such a powerful statement for guys who don't have "the perfect body" to wear my knitwear designs, so what if their belly shape is accentuated? It is their body and it doesn't define their attractiveness or health status.

What or who inspires you when creating designs?
I love minimalism and I am informed by clean lines and geometric shapes that were popular in the 60s; some initial names that come to mind are David Hockney, Alex Katz, Edward Hopper, and William Eggleston. A common thread in their art, from afar, it appears minimal with broad strokes, but upon closer inspection, you find so many surprising, pleasing, and satisfying nuances. Therefore, diligence is important to me. With our current, instant gratification culture, I understand people sometimes, upon first impression, are drawn to things that are flashy. However, one comment I have been getting from customers is that they had no idea how good our clothes look on their bodies and they end up purchasing something that they never thought they would because of how the pieces interact with the body and how comfortable they are.

I am also inspired by some classic menswear design pieces, but then I think about how to realize them in an interesting way by changing them around (like making the classic wifebeater with a “square neckline” to make it more contemporary or the traditional woven polo with a more bodycon material).

Some of my other inspirations include designer Edi Slimane, as well as style icons such as Jane Birken, Kate Moss, and Lindsay Lohan.

FANG recently expanded to new categories like skirts, dresses, rompers, and handbags. Tell us about the Summer 2022 collection.
As an observer of the New York queer club culture, I built the new collection with a nod to the diverse and dynamic ensembles seen at post-quarantine gatherings and celebrations. With new directional knitwear pieces such as a minimal ribbed dress, a parachute-shaped skirt, a form-fitting romper, and a pair of flared pants with artfully draped side panels, the collection continues to reinforce our core mission of championing diversity and challenging perception in menswear.

The assemblage further explores the dichotomy between femininity and masculinity by expanding on the statement knitwear tanks the brand is known for – two new pieces that feature grommet details evoke a sense of industrialism, while designs such as a halter top with extensions cascading down the back and an asymmetrical tank with a flowing bow sitting at the shoulder suggest sensuality and soft gestures. The collection also debuts our first handbag design – the Raver Sling Bag – a utilitarian wear-inspired piece that combines leather, metal eyelets, and rubber to bring forward an elevated everyday accessory for men.

You also recently released a swimwear collection. What was that design process like? What was the inspiration behind this collection?
Our first-ever swimwear includes two pearl-studded designs in a retro high-waisted trunk and a brief version, as well as a classic high-cut brief with ribbing detail. When designing the two, statement pieces within the collection – Pearl Retro High Waisted Bathing Suit and Pearl Swim Brief – I was intrigued by images of form-fitting, high-waisted nylon bathing suits of the 60s that offer both masculine and feminine qualities. To add a sensual flair to the silhouette with a contemporary update, I separated the front and back panels of the two styles with a cutout on each side of the hip, then used strands of pearls to connect them together. The construction also gives a nod to Little Eddie Beale’s “pin skirt” featured in the 1975 documentary “Grey Gardens,” a make-shift skirt that Beale made using a piece of fabric held together by safety pins. An additional line of pearls trails across the front and back rise of the swim trunk and brief to further reinforce the retro and whimsical aesthetic. Rounding out the collection is a minimal high-cut brief – Essential Ribbed Brief Bathing Suit – featuring our signature ribbing detail and logo embroidery. The design is offered in six vibrant hues (tangerine, royal blue, lemon, fuchsia, black, and white) to complement a range of skin tones and color preferences.

What do you want FANG to represent?
I want FANG to represent confidence, comfort, open-mindless, and sensuality.

Confidence: People should be able to liberally wear whatever they desire, not constrained by their gender, sexuality, physical appearance, etc.

Comfort: Through sheltering fully fashioned knitwear and beyond, I want the brand to be proof that fashion can be aesthetically inclined, made with high quality, and at the same time feels good on the body.

Open-mindless: I want the brand to keep pushing the boundary of what is considered menswear and womenswear, letting the general public understand that clothes are just clothes and ultimately should not be gendered. Through it all, I envision my brand being a space where people can be more confident and expressive in their style choices.

Sensuality: I want to capture subtle emotions through my clothing. Elements such as pussy bows, pearls, and cut-outs constantly evoke a sense of elegance and romance, without being overly sexual and flashy.

What do you hope for FANG as the brand continues to grow?
Looking ahead, I would love for the brand to venture into womenswear: having more female representation to further champion our inclusive and dynamic brand values. I am working on a collection that will truly be unisex to fit both male and female figures, which I am super excited about. I also want to continue using the brand as a vehicle to drive conversation about important topics within the community and the society at large. I would love to further redirect our resources to NGOs that we feel connected with the likes of Housing Works, SAGE, and more.

Is there anyone you’d like for FANG to collaborate with in the future?
Yes. The truth is, art and culture are so ingrained within our brand culture, and we are constantly seeking artists, photographers, and designers to work with. It is the brand DNA to champion artistic expressions and the creative progress of its work, from designing to storytelling. I believe fashion and all creative forms are interconnected to inform each other. Paul Mpagi Sepuya is an artist/photographer I am currently obsessed with and would love to get the opportunity to collaborate on a project with. Pierre et Gilles are also on my wish list of artists I would like to work with.

What is something you’re currently loving?
I am aware of trends, but I don’t necessarily follow them. Therefore, what I currently love may be a little off-beat than what’s “hot.” Low-rise flared pants are something I am loving now. Before I always favored high-waisted pants because it helps elongate the legs. However, I find a pair of low-rise bell bottoms with a pair of thongs intentionally hung out to be extremely sexy. I guess the early 2000s is back now.

Knee-high shoes + short shorts are also a combination I’ve been obsessed with of late. I scoured the internet recently trying to find a pair of vintage, Alaia knee-high, laser-cut gladiator sandals that also look like cowboy boots, gosh they are so good!

Last but not least, chainmail and heavily rhinestone designs. Who doesn’t love shiny and substantial objects?

How would you define your personal style?
I think a lot of the collections I design are a reflection/ extension of my personal style and how I want to present my experience as a queer individual, a person of color, and an immigrant. I feel the best when I wear shape-defining clothes, and I am really informed by the late 2000s (when I was studying fashion for my undergrad): Lindsay Lohan, Rachel Zoe, and other American style icons and how they dressed so cool and effortlessly with a bohemian, grunge, and rock-and-roll sensibility.

What advice would you give to anyone struggling to find their style and to feel comfortable in their own skin?
I think they could start by making small, subtle statements such as finding a daring color, pattern, or a small piece of fashion such as a bag, a piece of jewelry, or a nail polish that they like and build off that. For example, someone recently told me that cross-body bags have taught him to dress more fluidly and to break down the gender norm. He, like a lot of people, was afraid of how people would see him wearing something conventionally “feminine.” One day, he found this beautiful purse at a flea market for $8 that he just could not pass on the opportunity. From there, he got a taste of not only the aesthetic benefit but also the utilitarian benefit of having cross-body bags. There are many things he could carry now when he’s out and about. The small accessory acted as the gateway for him to be more experiential with fashion and, in turn, more in tune/ comfortable in his own skin. A lot of times I hear people say “I can’t pull it off;” it really doesn’t mean they can’t, but they rather don’t feel comfortable doing so. I think caring a bit less about what other people think is important. Also, you may find nine out of 10 times you would receive compliments when you wear something interesting.

Social media:
Instagram: @fang.nyc
Tik Tok: @fang.nyc Website: fang.nyc

Interview by Taylor Houston, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Alexa Dyer, Graphic Design Coordinator, PhotoBook Magazine
*Images courtesy of Fang