2023 Core
Attaching the suffix core to the name of a fashion trend is the internet’s way of fitting an entire style or aesthetic into one comprehensive term. While made up words like “normcore” and “cottagecore” predate 2023, this year we saw an influx of blank cores across social media, though some were more widespread than others. Barbie-core was unavoidable across the internet, while gorpcore and Aliyahcore were more niche among fashion communities who already latched onto the style without a proper name. Below are a few of the most popular core aesthetics of 2023, alongside influencers who embrace the style to their core.
Coquette-core has taken over social media far beyond the fashion realm, with bows being added to everything from pickles to wine stems to cats. The aesthetic embraces hyper-femininity by styling dainty pieces such as corsets and ballet flats with ribbon bows in pretty pastels, lace tights and pearls. Associated with coquette-core is what has become known as “ballet-core” and the “soft girl” look. Both offshoots of the aesthetic have coquette at their core but embrace different elements like leg warmers for ballet lovers and clean makeup for soft girls.
The origins of coquette fashion stem back to the 1990s resurgence of Victorian and Rococo era dressing, which is most often attributed to the popularity of the novel titled Lolita by Vladimir Nabokov. Apart from the 20-year trend cycle coming back around, runway looks by Sandy Liang, Simone Rocha, and Miu Miu solidified the aesthetic into the 2023 trend report. Coquette-core is, by far, the most popular fashion trend of 2023 as #coquette has 15.2 billion views on TikTok, and it doesn’t appear to be going anywhere anytime soon.
Gorpcore is probably the most lowkey of all the 2023 trends, though it certainly is one of the most popular with 1.6 billion views on #gorpcore. Popularized by off-duty models wearing their hiking gear as casualwear, fashion stylist Shalev Lavan defined the look for Teen Vogue as “wearing functional outdoor wear in an urban, trendy style.”
While the term was coined in 2017 by writer and editor Jason Chen as an adaption of normcore (unpretentious, simple clothing) which is “defiantly ugly” yet inconspicuous and utilitarian. North Face puffer jackets, Patagonia vests, Teva sandals, Solomon sneakers, paired with wardrobe staples like baggy jeans and a handbag make for the quintessential gorpcore look. During the pandemic this look took precedence as outdoor activities became almost a daily occurrence, and still remains popular amongst those living urban lifestyles who crave time spent in nature.
In the fashion world this next aesthetic is generally quite niche, though the premier of Barbie had influencers and movie watchers alike stressing out over what to wear this summer as the color pink flooded our timelines and movie theaters. Even though the doll herself has hundreds of iconic looks in all different colors, pink was the dominant color under #barbiecore with over a billion TikTok videos viewed under the hashtag.
Even though Stereotypical Barbie, played by Margot Robbie, is a preppy girly girl, Barbie-core encouraged everyone to incorporate the color pink into their own aesthetic. Whether it be pink cargo pants with a matching button-up or a frilly dress that resembled one the movie’s main character would wear, Barbie-core was inescapable during the summer of 2023.
Worn consistently amongst English football fans, the blokecore aesthetic has been kicked across the pond and the classic football (soccer to Americans) jersey worn with jeans and Adidas Sambas have become especially popular amongst young men interested in fashion in the states. Vice credits the international popularity of this style to TikTok creator Brandon Huntley, Charlotte FC fan and vintage store employee whose friends commented “bloke” on his outfit content, and now #blokecore has over 500 million views.
While the traditional blokecore aesthetic is pretty gender neutral, this summer social media was flooded with what became known as the blokette-core aesthetic. A combination of some of the year’s most influential style trends, blokette combines masculine and feminine aesthetics by replacing the Samba laces with ribbons, wearing skirts instead of jeans, and so on. A specific variation on a classic outfit, it will be interesting to see the longevity of blokette-core as time goes on.
Last but certainly not least is the I-T-G-I-R-L aesthetic known as Aliyahcore. Fashion influencer turned popstar Aliyah Bah has taken the internet by storm with her hit song It Girl being featured in every other video on social media, but prior to her music going viral, her alternative Y2K mixed with Harajuku style was making waves amongst online e-girlies. The outfits include so many colors and prints, layers of neon fishnets, furry boots, earmuffs, and of course a mini skirt.
While most other 2023 fashion trends stem from capitalist fashion brands recycling old aesthetics, Aliyah’s style comes from the heart. She dresses in a way that makes her happy and she encourages others to do the same. Now with over 400 million views on TikTok, the fashion trend previously worn by a select few has become popular with anyone with a bit of angst in their style.
If 2023 was the year of-core, it’ll be interesting to see how much more specific and niche fashion can get in 2024. Perhaps the future of fashion will see less division between aesthetics and the trend cycle will come back around so quickly that everybody will choose to dress in a way that matches their individual personality, rather than assigning a label to every fashion choice.
Article by Danielle Tranter, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Chenglin Qu, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
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