Aja Barber, a writer, personal stylist, and consultant, deals with the intersections between sustainability and the fashion landscape. Her work focuses on ideas relating to wealth inequality, privilege, feminism, colonialism and how to fix the fashion industry with each of these in mind. Aja wrote a book, Consumed, and has written for Eco-Age, The Guardian, CNN, Selfridges and other sites.

What are some things you are most excited about the future of fashion?
I’m really here for the fall of fast fashion. I don’t think the pace at which things have moved have been really good for anyone (except a handful of people who got rich). I think the trend will continue towards folks stepping back, slowing down, keeping things for longer and seeking out quality over quantity.

Fast fashion is a problem within the industry. What advice can you share to help those wanting to make a positive change to this problem?
Challenge the model of endless growth on a finite planet. It’s really time for the industry to embrace alternative models and give degrowth real thought instead of paying lip service to it. If you’re a person with power within a corporation you need to challenge the number of seasons your corporation releases. You need to work to ensure that your company can say every person within the supply chain is treated and paid fairly.

Sustainable fashion may be a confusing concept for everyone to grasp. How would you describe sustainability in this industry?
In order for sustainability to exist it must be good for the planet and good for people (meaning those who make the clothes). You can’t have one without the other. I’d say if you’re unsure about a company ask yourself what this company is trying to sustain? Is it endless growth? Is it the urge that you need new clothes every time you visit a shop? Ask yourself what’s at the heart of this business. If you find there is no heart, there can be no sustainability. But also ask if everyone within the supply chain is paid.

What are your top brands that promote conscious, ethical, and cruelty-free products and/or fashions?
Lora Gene, Backbeat Co, Mie, Nor Black Nor White, Stalf, and Ahluwalia.

What happens to unsold clothes left behind by large fashion retailers like H&M, Nike and Victoria’s Secret?
Currently brands can still destroy a lot of unsold goods (incinerating, slashing, and destroying). We need to outlaw this practice. Countries like France are making laws which make it harder to do so. The rest of the world needs to adapt.

How can you best describe greenwashing and its negative behaviors towards the industry?
Greenwashing is pretending that your products are more people or planet friendly than they actually are. Though I would argue that at this point if you’re a clothing maker doing an “eco line,” it is a form or greenwashing. If every item of clothing within your brand doesn’t meet standards of sustainability than you have a conscious line that is mostly just a way of confusing shoppers so they’ll think your business model is better than it is.

What is something you wish people knew about sustainable fashion?
The most sustainable thing you can do is to wear the clothing you already own and limit the new clothing items you purchase. The days of shopping frivolously for items we wear once or twice are DONE. Also support small makers. That’s a very sustainable move.

When speaking of wealth inequality, what are the main factors contributing to it?Billionaires are a great place to start. But I do think all of our economic systems need to be critiqued because the gap between the wealthiest and the poorest on our planet gets bigger and bigger, which means the system isn’t serving the majority of people. I don’t think you should be able to operate a company that pays people in foreign countries pennies if you are making billions. That’s disgusting, but that’s what the fashion industry runs on.

How does inequality affect wealth?
Systems of oppression that we talk about like racism and feminism definitely widen the gap between the haves and the have nots. Like there’s still a wage gap between men and women and don’t get me started on ethnicity pay gaps. But generational wealth has been created all these times through oppressing others and systems like colonialism. It’s time to unpick all that.

PhotoBook loves how you act on sustainability, equality, and the ethical treatment of animals. Moving forward, what is the best advice you can give to us and our audience wanting to make a positive change towards a more sustainable and green future?
Stop giving your money to companies that have proven time and time again that they don’t deserve it. Let’s all slow down and really think about what we’re doing.

Article by Joshua Jordan, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Alexa Dyer, Graphic Design Coordinator, PhotoBook Magazine

Aja Barber: Writer And Personal Stylist Who Focuses On Sustainability