From Marie Antoinette to Jeanne Damas, what is it about French style that has captivated the masses for decades, and who is the actual embodiment of it? According to Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative director of Louis Vuitton, Françoise Hardy was, “the very essence of French style.”

Hardy, who passed away on June 11, 2024 at the age of 80, was a French singer, song-writer, actress, author, astrologer, and fashion icon. Perhaps she doesn’t come to mind as quickly as Jane Birkin, but she’s still far from being a no name, and is the epitome of 1960s and 70s French chic. Hardy believed that if it wasn’t for her clothes, nobody would know who she was. Yet, it’s that mystery and nonchalance that made her the style icon she came to be.

Mainly known for her pensive and emotional songs, Hardy rose to fame in the early 1960s, during the yé-yé movement, primarily inspired by British and American rock and roll. As we know, style goes beyond the clothing you wear, and music has a long relationship with fashion, so it was only a matter of time before Hardy became a muse for a designer or two. She most notably caught the eye of Paco Rabanne, and at one point wore a dress by the designer that, at the time, was called the most expensive dress in the world and was made of over 1,000 gold plaques. She was one of the first to wear the Le Smoking, with Yves Saint Laurent saying that people went crazy when she walked into a room wearing it, and she helped launch the career of Sonia Rykiel. Andrè Courrèges also had her on the moodboard, as did Chanel, and we can’t forget Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons being inspired by Hardy’s 1963 hit “Tous les Garçons et les Filles.”

She understood very early on that her style of music did not effectively translate to English speaking audiences, so when she traveled to London or New York, she’d make sure that her outfits were always top notch. Because of this, her public image and sense of style ended up overshadowing her singing career outside of France. She became a trendsetter with the help of Jean-Marie Périer who almost exclusively took photos of her. In 1967 Special Pop wrote, “Françoise manages to attract both kids and their parents, men and women alike. More than a singer, she's becoming a universal myth with whom thousands of young girls dream of identifying.” She was considered the anti-Bardot with her more androgynous silhouettes, and although her slender build was once a source of self-consciousness, during the 60s it suddenly became fashionable.

Yet when asked about her fame and “icon” status, she said, “I didn't enjoy at all everything, the trappings, when all of a sudden you become very famous. (...) [Being taken up by fashion houses] was work, things I had to do, a chore—I didn't enjoy it at all... It is quite impossible to stand—to be admired too much—it is not a normal situation. I don't like that at all. I am not comfortable with my professional life really, so the word 'icon'—it's as though you were talking about someone else, it's not me really."

From a young age, Hardy struggled with anxiety, loneliness and insecurities. She was shy, self-deprecating, and had trouble connecting with people socially. This didn’t stop with her newly acquired fame, as she didn’t care about celebrity at all. She was often hesitant to accept acting roles and didn’t feel like people truly understood her artistically when it came to her music. Hardy was always at her happiest when working independently and doing things to the beat of her own drum. She was an enigma, and her paired down, unbothered sense of style complimented that.

Everything about her fashion choices felt effortless, as if no decisions had to be made– whatever she touched, she just threw on. This discreteness left people wanting more. In The Fashion System, Roland Barthes writes, “The essence of elegance is to be simple, to let an impression of refinement appear as though it were natural,” and that authenticity with which she carried herself is why so many people resonated with her. She was relatable, but also someone they aspired to be. Even today we see people struggle to figure out their personal style, and that is partially due to the fact that they have yet to figure out who they are themselves. Hardy lived in her truth, and her clothing was an extension of that– of her identity.

Hardy’s style was also timeless, which is why it continues to inspire many to this day. Her clothing defied the trend cycle, and as Suzy Menkes says in The Power of Style, “The essence of chic is to have a timeless wardrobe that remains relevant regardless of changing trends.” Her personal style, without its care of current trends, made her stand out in the 1960s as someone who dressed in a way that didn’t resemble the masses. Her strong sense of individuality along with her uncomplicated elegance is what made her the essence of French style, and the reason she will forever be remembered.

Article by Caroline Nycek, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Bradley Duley, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine

Françoise Hardy: The Essence of French Style