Gucci for the People: Sabato De Sarno’s Pragmatism

After Alessandro Michele left Gucci in November 2022, the fashion community waited with bated breath to see who would lead this next chapter of the Italian fashion house. Two months later, Sabato De Sarno was appointed as creative director. There was no question about De Sarno’s qualification to direct (or should I say, redirect) Gucci. Still, the industry had no idea what to expect from this change in leadership.

Even after his debut at Gucci women’s Spring/Summer 2024, we were still in the dark. The collection featured well-tailored blazers and overcoats, an obscure color palette, and rhinestone-jeweled mini dresses. The clothes were so wearable that people were actually disappointed. Until then, we were so used to Michele’s eclectic maximalism. Where were the baggy silhouettes, fur-lined loafers, and mismatching prints? De Sarno’s presentation had no clear vision. Or so we thought.

Last month, De Sarno made a statement at Gucci men’s Fall 2024 show. Only it wasn’t because he had something new to offer. Rather, the presentation was merely a “mirroring,” as fashion critics called it, of his first women’s collection. Models stepped out in fitted overcoats, slacks, and again: tailored shorts. It became clear that De Sarno did have a vision: to revive pragmatic clothing in an age of catwalk spectacles. Sure, Michele’s sequined jumpsuits and geek chic aesthetic may have released our sartorial inhibitions. However, De Sarno’s lineup gives us the blueprint for how to implement bold looks into our everyday wardrobe.

Many people have compared De Sarno’s appreciation for tailoring and lace elements to the sensual elegance of Tom Ford-era Gucci, a time when the house flourished. These references were intentional, establishing his affinity to Gucci’s core aesthetic. However, this is not to say that De Sarno didn’t add his own unique touches to the collections. I particularly liked his inventive use of leather, juxtaposing elegant silhouettes with a material that’s associated with punk culture. It shows us that De Sarno is not exactly on the opposite side of the spectrum as Michele. In fact, he is just as willing to rebel against sartorial tradition, only he does so with the client strictly in mind and not his own idealist attitude or interests.

In this next era of Gucci, I think we can expect elegant pieces that push the boundaries of wearability without putting it completely out of the question. This will certainly prove to be a more lucrative direction for Gucci, with more people being able to visualize themselves in De Sarno’s designs.

In an interview after his men’s wear presentation, De Sarno ominously stated, “I love fashion. Not just the idea [of fashion].” Perhaps this is a jab at critics who complained that his presentations lacked a “wow” factor. Nonetheless, it homes in on the fact that De Sarno isn’t interested in theatrics. He is here to make beautiful clothing for us to actually wear.

Article by Meyme Nakash, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Daniel López, Art Director, PhotoBook Magazine

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Style WatchAlison HernonFebruary 24, 2024#Gucci, #luxury, #fashion, #Italy, #pragmatic, #geek chic, #elegant, #Sabato De Sarno, #creative director, #leadership