Milan Fashion RTW Review: Fall 2024
Milan Fashion Week took place from February 20-26 and set the stage for fall and winter 2024. A celebration of style and innovation highlights this season's exciting collections from Diesel to Bottega Venetta that pushed the boundaries of everyday fashion. In chronological order, PhotoBook highlights some of the top shows from the week to remember.
Diesel
Opening the week, creative director Glen Martens continued off the hype of the brand with its stunty social marketing and flashy designs. Set against the backdrop of 1,000 virtual attendees projected on the walls, Diesel’s house codes of denim and weathered leather saw newness with shag fur and coated distressing. The theme of the show was transparency from the pre-show’s live stream that provided open access to the styling, casting, and ateliers, to the experimentation with translucent fabric that created a patchwork effect. Martens delivered a voyeuristic spectacle while amplifying the label as the star of Milan Fashion Week.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons channeled nostalgia in Prada’s latest collection with looks ranging from tailored power suits to 1940s military inspired suiting. The stiff silhouettes of the midi-length skirts and columnar dresses were balanced with bows, stain, velvet, and structured that blends both creative director’s DNA for wearable luxury. Decorated visor caps, square-shoulder trench coats, and buttoned-up collared jackets, referencing the 1940s, represent the “fragments of history” from the show’s notes. Prada takes moments from history to reinterpret them in a modern take.
Moschino
Newly appointed creative director, Adrian Appiolaza brought Moschino back to its roots and paid tribute to the man who started it all: Franco Moschino. Following the departure of his predecessor, Jeremy Scott, dubbed the “King of Camp,” this collection took a more subdued approach with an everyday feel that still incorporated cheeky elements such as a suspender trompe l'oeil button-down or paper sailor boat hats. Appiolaza reinterprets Franco Moschino’s designs with his smiley face and prints that pay tribute to the founder’s 90s reign.
Ferragamo
Maximilian Davis continues to amplify Ferragamo’s ready-to-wear, a label infamously known for its footwear, with this season’s sharply tailored uniforms ranging in hues of red, military green, and mustard. Inspired by the 1920s, the collection featured dropped waists, reinvented hemlines, and structured wool coats contrasted with draped underlayers. Luxurious outerwear, cozy knits, and buttery leather are the epitome of fall and winter staples. Under Davis’ vision, Ferragamo renews its heritage of timeless charm that still captures the essence of today’s trends.
Bottega Venetta
For Bottega Venetta’s autumn/winter 2024 show, creative director Matthieu Blazy turned the runway into a desert landscape filled with Murano glass-shaped cactus sculptures. Similar to the collection’s setting, the clothing made a statement: bold design in a sea of sameness. This is a collection that must be viewed in movement to appreciate the craftsmanship of the three-dimensional pleating, to the fringe-covered jacket, and feather-trimmed gowns.
In conclusion, in the whirlwind of Milan Fashion Week, these collections were beacons of inspiration for the upcoming season, showcasing the designer’s ability to shape and redefine the fashion narrative.
Written by Makenna Tourville, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Nicolas Harris, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
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