Phoebe Philo’s Brand Launch
Phoebe Philo, the Paris born, London based fashion designer and the previous creative director of both Chloé and Céline, debuted the launch of her eponymous label on October 30th. After succeeding Stella McCartney at Chloé and being credited in the New York Times by fashion critic Vanessa Friedman as having “made Céline matter in a way it never had before,” it seemed inevitable that Philo’s success would prompt the launch of a label under her own name. Credited for designing with the ‘female gaze’ in mind, the debut of her label was met with much anticipation in the fashion world.
She described the collection as part of a “seasonless, continuous body of work,” and, in her Spring 24 statement, affirmed that the label aimed to “create a product that reflects permanence,” drawing a parallel to her philosophy when designing for Céline. The clothes, in reconciliation with her Céline designs, are timeless, consisting of classic, typically masculine pieces with distinct silhouettes and off-beat features. Chicly tailored cargo jackets and trousers, trench coats, and the classic Pheobe Philo esq high neck lines all feature, as well as combed ribbon embroidered coats and trousers that look like fur, asymmetrical dresses that rise to the thigh, and a MUM necklace in 23-karat gold. Her attention to detail was evident in structural trousers that unzip along the seams, bomber jackets with black leather tassels, and a range of loafers and ankle boots, primarily square toed and heavily inspired by 90s and 60s design. There is a distinctively subversive element in each piece and an emphasis on volume, texture, and tone. While the collection is, as predicted, evocative of her direction at Céline, there are similarly distinct rudiments of early Martin Margiela seen in the tailoring and silhouettes. There is a conceptual emphasis too - Philo’s awareness of the female gaze in the line’s imagery as well as diverse casting lacking in celebrities point to the edit standing as a carefully calibrated and intellectual approach to fashion.
The showroom presentation of the editing was done in a typical Philo esq low profile manner. Typically, she rarely participates in interviews or makes grand statements. She tends to let her clothes do the talking for her. However, the “edit,” as it was titled in the launch, was still met with a range of criticism. “Philo’s reputation precedes her,” affirmed Aoife Byrne, a retail analyst at Edited, and on social media, users stated that the brand was “out of touch,” in reference to the “out of control” prices. However, it’s indisputable that her base of supporters, dubbed “Philophiles,” who began refreshing the website at dawn on October 30th and later caused a technical crash, imply her enduring attraction as a designer. The pricing of luxury fashion houses such as Chanel, Bottega Veneta, and, apparently, now Pheobe Philo, is a controversial subject. There are those who argue that luxury fashion is simply about status, while others argue that luxury pieces are more sustainable and act as investments. In the label’s statement, it read, “The Phoebe Philo business model is designed to create a responsible balance between production and demand. For us, this means producing notably less than anticipated want.” This is very evident on the website, on which nearly every product reads ‘SOLD OUT’ below, and affirms that, by creating high demand, fashion houses will justify prices that are unfeasible for the majority of consumers.
Phoebe Philo’s rise to success seemed consistent, despite her three-year hiatus in 2018 after stepping down from Céline. There has been speculation as to her ability to remain relevant and even acclaimed in the capricious world of fashion, which depends so much on constant publicity and promotion. After graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins, she worked at Chloé as an assistant to her friend, Stella McCartney, also a recent graduate. She succeeded McCartney and was appointed artistic director. This role gained Philo a spotlight, and, after becoming creative director of Céline in 2008, she cultivated an identity in her designs that was conceptually focused and characterized as defining the modern woman. Subsequently, she established a cult following and long-term loyalty from her buyers. This loyalty has allowed her to keep a low profile, require minimal promotional campaigns, go anonymous for three years, and still sell out within hours of her first launch. She must be credited with mastering the art of balancing her acclaimed status with her private life and understanding the fundamentals of cultivating both a cult following and an identity within fashion. The fashion world is often excessively capricious, yet Philo has managed to rise up the ranks in a low-key and refined manner, proving again that maintaining connections and principles are ultimately the fundamentals for success.
Pheobe Philo and Stella McCartney at the Chloé store opening, 1999
Article by Alana Courtney-Gleeson, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Chenglin Qu, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
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