Stepping Into Infamy With Timberland
Nathan Swartz, a Russian-born American and fourth-generation cobbler, embarked on his apprenticeship in Boston in 1928, driven by a passion for exceptional craftsmanship. In 1933, a few hours away, the Abington Shoe Company in South Boston was founded and dedicated to the making of superior quality shoes. In 1952, captivated by the company’s commitment to excellence, Swartz seized a 50% stake in Abington. Just three years later, he had secured full ownership, propelling the company to new heights.
Sidney Swartz, the son of Nathan Swartz, wanted to make a boot for construction and warehouse workers, the blue-collar shoe for the blue-collar people of Massachusetts. One of the first water-proof leather boots which used nubuck leather and thick rubber lug soles, the boots would be tested by being drowned in a bucket overnight and seeing where the shoe leaked from. The new technology of injection molding made the shoe more flexible to different kinds of weather.
Ads run by Timberland in 1979 (left) and 1982 (right)
It all began with the yellow boot. In 1973, the Abington Shoe Company introduced the Original Timberland 8-inch Boot, marking the birth of an icon. Just three years later, the 6-inch version debuted, becoming the legendary silhouette we recognize today. Initially designed for construction and warehouse workers for its durability, the boot's popularity soared when some of the biggest names in rap culture embraced it, transforming the brand's image and shifting its image and ethos. In 1978, after the rise in popularity of the shoe, Abington Shoe Company officially renamed themselves The Timberland Company.
Paninari Teens and Edifumetto Illustration via Pinterest
In the 80’s, Timberlands took over Italy. Paninari was a fashion movement created and adapted by middle and upper-class Milanese teens inspired by their version of the American Dream. It was to show off their wealth by exuberant dressing. Pilots and flight attendants brought extra suitcases to fill with Timberlands so that they can sell them overseas for more. Italy believed in the American dream, or at least what they themselves painted it out to be. All things that were alien to Italian culture, Timberland built the bridge.
Mobb Deep’s “The Infamous” released in 1995
Working class shoe, built to last. The population in tune with fashion, from the Bronx to Brooklyn, controlled and still do, what fly is. The shoe represented a need to be heard. An empowering shoe. Rugged and rough. From Misa Hilton, an infamous stylist of many hip-hop artists in the ‘90s really resonated with the boot as well as the likes of Salt and Peppa, MC Light, Biggie and ‘Pac. The shoe became indivisible with Hip-Hop.
Tupac and Rosie Perez at the 1993 SoulTrains
Mobb Deep and Tupac showcased Timberlands in public, while Biggie Smalls and Nas not only wore them but also celebrated them in their lyrics. Rumor has it that a rising star, Jay-Z, purchased a new pair every week from New York institution, David Z. In 1993, The New York Times noted, "Timberland is grappling with a kind of concrete success it never intended."
DMX (right) and Biggie Smalls (left) courtesy of Pinterest
It did not matter the weather. Hot or cold, laced and unlaced, from performers to the everyday person, the Timberlands were on.
Give Racism the Boot ran in 1993.
The CEO did not know what hip-hop was and was reportedly deturbed to learn that they were not lacing up their boots, knowing their feet would get wet. He did not understand the fashion statement Timberlands could make. They were meant to be for construction workers and now they were being bought by the streets. In an effort to let the public know that they were not against Black people wearing their boot, they ran the infamous Give Racism the Boot campaign. It was so impactful; some would steal the advertisement from its slip in the subway.
The ravers in the UK took hold of the shoe as well in the late 80s through the 90s. It was a functional shoe for the dirt paths they had to follow to reach the field filled with music. Timberlands represented to them rebellion. During a time when the government wasn’t listening to them, they laced up their Timbs and played their music louder.
English ravers. Photo courtesy of Highsnobiety on YouTube
In Japan, hip-hop became an appreciated form of expression with Rap City, a television show that showcased music videos on BET, being recorded on VHS and passed around. They saw the visuals first since English was not an easy language and saw Timbs. This was the American shoe that everyone wanted and that many saw to represent the culture that they wanted to be a part of.
Rihanna wearing Timberlands via Pinterest
Photos courtesy of Timberland
From Manolo Blahnik "Timberland Heels" in 2001 to many collaborations with other luxury brands, the journey of the Timberland boot and the company itself was one the creators themselves could never imagine. Due to the gritty authenticity that was provided by the Timberland, many fell in love with the shoe that lived a hard-working life and those that pretended to be a part of it. From hiking to hustling, the boot represents power and all its forms. The yellow boot is here to stay.
Article by Seana Watson, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Bradley Duley, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
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