It’s a great feeling to come home with a massive haul of inexpensive clothing that you believe is sustainably and ethically made. What’s not great is being lied to by your favorite retailer that makes you think what you are buying is actually eco-conscious or morally sound. Fast fashion companies like H&M, Boohoo, and ASOS carry collections that they label as being environmentally friendly, despite providing no real evidence for these claims. This type of marketing is considered “greenwashing,” which the Natural Resources Defence Council defines as “the act of making false or misleading statements about the environmental benefits of a product or practice.” The term was first coined by environmentalist Jay Westerveld, in 1986, although the first known case of greenwashing took place in the 1960s, during a time of advances in nuclear power. Advertisements by electrical giant Westinghouse claimed that generating nuclear energy was “odorless … neat, clean, and safe,” which for the most part was untrue.

The World's First Industrial-Scale Nuclear Power Plant via Power Technology

The same tactic is used today when promoting “green” products, such as clothing made from recycled materials or in ethical conditions. Of course, not all clothing produced is harmful to the planet, but mass-produced garments with exceptionally low prices are what the average consumer shops for without knowing the impact of the purchase. Clothing companies are ultimately responsible for being honest with their customers, but it’s important for shoppers to be aware of the following , ten ways that retailers lie to them.

One. Eco-friendly packaging. Although this is a good start toward using sustainable materials, in no way does it affect the overall impact that mass-producing clothing has on the environment. Using recycled or recyclable materials is a good first step, but switching the packaging alone is not enough to address the harm of creating clothing unsustainability.

Recyclable Poly Bag from Better Packaging

Two. Mis-leading claims and targets. Publicly owned-companies set goals for how they plan to reduce their carbon footprint, but it’s important not to take these numbers at face value. Oftentimes with no push from governments or environmental agencies, companies set goals that they are comfortable with, not based on the planet’s actual needs.

Three. Excessive use of recycled polyester. The word “recycled” can be misleading in this situation as polyester is plastic. In order to make fabric for clothing, this recycled polyester typically must be mixed with other materials to create a wearable textile, causing the final product no longer to be recyclable in the way it initially was. Washing this material also leads to fiber shedding of microplastics into our waterways.

Recycled plastic bottles used to create recycled polyester via Weavable

Four. Low prices for clothing labeled “ethically made.” There are ways for brands to cut costs on materials, shipping, and wholesale markups that aren’t necessarily harmful to the planet or to people, but the cost of human labor cannot be lowered for the sake of profitability. “Ethically made” would mean that garment workers would earn a living wage, however the Human Rights Watch interviewed a Pakistani clothing supplier who said, “the brand [they produced for] said it wanted the supplier to pay a living wage but backtracked after seeing what it would take for them to pay workers a fair price.” This is the case all over the fast fashion marketplace. Clothing that is truly ethically made is produced in non-toxic environments by workers making enough money to at least afford basic necessities.

Five. “Eco-conscious” and “sustainable” labels without proof of the claims. Brands love to slap these words onto products without any explanation. Before buying something just because it has a green tag, look into the validity of these claims to make sure they aren’t being misused.

Six. Suggestive pictures of greenery or recycled plastics. Imagery can be more compelling than words, hence brands often take product photos or marketing content in natural environments. This tactic can trick casual shoppers into thinking that the purchase they are making is actually good for the planet.

Seven. Amplification of one sustainable practice within the supply chain. Every step a company makes toward creating a more sustainably-focused industry has value, however there are some changes that make much less of a difference in the grand scheme of the clothing/textile industry. One common example manufacturers provide is the use of LED light bulbs in their facilities. Of course, this is helpful in reducing energy waste, however using less water in the clothes dyeing process or 3D printing garments to reduce excess fabric waste would be more beneficial to the environment overall.

SHEIN Headquarters in Singapore via Getty Images

Eight. Claiming a product is more sustainable than others. Phrases that suggest a product is more sustainable than its competitors are meaningless considering that the fashion industry overall is not sustainable. If statistics about one brand’s environmental impact are provided in comparison to another, this can be helpful in determining the lesser of two evils. If a brand is truly sustainable, it wouldn’t need to place itself next to another brand because their practices would look totally different than one another’s.

Nine. Using words only a scientist would understand. Typical marketing tactics are meant to be easy for the average consumer to comprehend, which is why the use of scientific terminology should be a red flag when looking for sustainable options. Although there are technical terms for how clothing is made, the marketing language shouldn’t be so confusing that it leads shoppers to assume the product is something it’s not.

Ten. False third-party endorsements. Brands that participate in greenwashing are unable to get actual accreditation from environmental protections groups for their “eco” garments. In order to make it look like their claims are valid, they will make up titles and certifications within the company to keep up the facade.

In conclusion, all of this is not to say that there are not sustainable practices taking place within the fashion industry. While fast fashion retailers generally are not creating garments in a way that puts the planet first, there are plenty of brands and designers who have the environment at the top of mind. The below certifications, courtesy of Ethical Made Easy, can be obtained by companies looking to prove that their sustainability claims are accurate. Smaller brands that care about the environment may not be able to afford these certifications, so look out for thorough explanations as for why their claims are valid.

- Australian Certified Organic (ACO)
- Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)
- BLUESIGN
- Certified B Corporation
- Ethical Clothing Australia (ECA)
- Fairtrade
- Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)
- Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS Certified)
- Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX
- Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP)

If you are still unsure whether or not you should shop a brand, check out its ratings on goodonyou.com or ethicalmadeeasy.com. These websites are user friendly guides that conduct independent research into how ethical and sustainable a brand is. They also suggest brands in every category of fashion that are proven to be good for the planet, so that you can shop with peace of mind.

By shopping for clothing that aligns with our general concerns for the environment, brands that lack that concern will be forced to care for the sake of remaining in business, due to the economic shift towards supporting brands that match the public’s values. Hopefully in the future, greenwashing will be a thing of the past and the fashion industry will lean into sustainability for the sake of the planet and its people.

Article by Danielle Tranter, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Chenglin Qu, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine

Your Favorite Brands Are Lying To You: Greenwashing Tactics to Look Out for While Clothes Shopping