The Oscars are arguably film’s biggest night, but it also represents a major moment in the fashion calendar. In fact, many people watch the Oscars solely for the memorable Red Carpet looks rather than to see film industry insiders vying for the coveted trophy in their respective categories.

Janet Gaynor 1929 Bettmann Archive/Getty Images via ew.com

However, the Oscar’s fashion hasn’t always been a big deal. At the first Academy Awards ceremony in 1929, Janet Gaynor wore a humble sweater and scarf when she received the award for Best Actress. Her outfit was a far cry from the elaborate designer gowns donned by the Hollywood starlets of today.

Demi Moore at the 1989 Oscars. Photo by Jim Smeal via vogue.com

Prior to the 1990s, celebrities primarily dressed themselves for red carpets, with varying degrees of success. Demi Moore’s polarizing biker shorts look at the 1989 Oscars unfortunately became a persuasive piece of evidence against the idea of celebrities dressing themselves.

Richard Gere in American Gigolo (1980) via gq.com

When an enterprising Giorgio Armani provided the costuming for Richard Gere’s character in the 1980 film, American Gigolo, the worlds of film and fashion began to converge in new ways. Speaking to System Magazine, Armani stated, “I realized the powerful impact that cinema could have on the collective imagination, and the desire to identify with a character’s style. From there came a structured strategy with commercial goals.”

Jessica Lange wearing Armani at the Oscars in 1990. Photo by Ron Galella-WireImage via yahoo.com

From that point on, Armani developed and nurtured strategic relationships with Hollywood directors and actors and became the designer of choice for red carpet events. In fact, the 1990 Oscars were dubbed the “Armani Awards” by Women’s Wear Daily as many of the A-list stars of the time wore Armani on the Red Carpet.

Joan Rivers. Photo by Charles William Bush via hollywoodreporter.com

Public obsession with celebrities’ red-carpet attire can partially be attributed to late comedian and critic Joan Rivers. Armed with caustic wit, she pulled no punches in critiquing looks she disliked. She was open about her lack of fashion knowledge. Rivers represented the voice of the fashion outsider and was unafraid to shed a humorous light on the fashion industry, which is known for its pretentiousness. A famous red-carpet interviewer, she was reportedly the first to ask, “Who are you wearing?” From then on, celebrities and fashion brands saw the opportunities for publicity, ushering in a new era of red-carpet dressing that entailed stylists and lucrative brand deals.

Emma Stone in Louis Vuitton. Photo by WireImage via thecut.com

Today’s red-carpet landscape is awash with celebrities serving as brand ambassadors not only for major fashion houses, but for makeup and jewelry brands as well. Stylists and agents serve as the mediators, wheeling and dealing on the behalf of their celebrity clients to secure the most coveted gowns and money-making endorsements.

Recently, there’s been a shift. Actors and stylists are aiming to showcase personal style in a more meaningful way even within the confines of the formal red-carpet dress code. It is now less about wearing the latest couture gown straight off the runway or inking a seven-figure deal with a major brand. The focus is on demonstrating a well-developed sense of style and connoisseurship of fashion brands, references, and influences.

Colman Domingo in Louis Vuitton and Omega. Photo by Getty Images via thecut.com

Before it was a flex to be the first to wear a garment off the runway; now it’s a status symbol to wear more obscure, archival pieces from storied fashion houses. It’s a way for celebrities to show that they’re in the know and that their stylists have the skill and clout required to obtain these relics of fashion history.

Carey Mulligan in a custom recreation of a 1951 Balenciaga gown. Photo by Getty Images via thecut.com

In an environment where actors seem to serve solely as billboards for billion-dollar fashion conglomerates, many find this more personal approach to the red carpet refreshing. The public is clued-in to the money games and teams of fashion experts who exist behind red-carpet looks. Despite this awareness, ordinary people still want to see some degree of celebrities’ personalities being showcased in their outfits. Audiences are craving authenticity. Leith Clark, the stylist behind Rosamund Pike’s much-loved Golden Globes look, tells the Washington Post of his experience with Pike, “you feel like it’s a privilege to be able to be real.”

Rosamund Pike at the Golden Globes. Photo by Gilbert Flores/Golden Globes 2024/Getty Images via vogue.com

Even as the Oscars and other high-profile award shows evolve, they continue to captivate audiences with their blend of cinematic excellence and high fashion. From humble beginnings to the rise of celebrity stylists and strategic brand partnerships, the red carpet has become a symbol of the intersection between film and fashion. As celebrities play a more active role in curating their personal aesthetics, audiences are treated not only to sartorial splendor but also to genuine glimpses of personality and creativity on the red carpet.

Article by Ren Wilson, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Nicolas Harris, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine

Lights, Camera, Fashion: A Red-Carpet Revolution