Concluding the whirlwind of fashion month, Paris Fashion Week (February 28th - March 5th) offered a captivating glimpse into the trends of fall and winter 2024, featuring an array of designers including Saint Laurent and the highly anticipated debut of Chemena Kamali at Chloé. This season served as a tribute to French culture and its profound influence on the world of fashion. PhotoBook presents a curated selection of standout shows from the week, ensuring they remain etched in memory.

Saint Laurent

Kicking off the week, Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent paid homage to the brand's heritage of transgression, liberation, and female empowerment with his barely-there designs. Stocking dresses, blouses, and pencil skirts were constructed out of sheer silk hosiery fabric, the essence of Saint Laurent's seductive allure with minimal coverage. Looks ranged in tones of taupe to olive to chocolate brown to burgundy, complemented by accessories such as stocking caps and slender belts worn by the models.

Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten, of his eponymous label, unveiled his latest show titled "The Woman Who Dares to Cut Her Own Fringe," embodying a spirit of boldness, daring, and fearless self-expression. This concept translated seamlessly into a collection characterized by vibrant hues and unexpected textures, including shag mohair and intricately embellished suit sleeves. The presentation featured hybrid dressing, where textures, color palettes, and silhouettes collided harmoniously, such as pairing a satin blazer jacket with denim sleeves or transforming a hoodie into a chic draped dress. To underscore the show's theme, all models sported long fringe bangs that artfully concealed their facial features, adding a touch of mystery and intrigue to the runway.

Acne Studios

Under the creative direction of Jonny Johansson, denim and leather stand as cornerstones of Acne Studios. This season, the brand showcases its inherent DNA through masterful fabric manipulation and treatment, unveiling a spectrum of textures from the matte, paint-like coating on denim to the supple, ruched hides of leather. Completing the collection are skin-tight, zippered bodysuits exuding a rebellious edge, alongside layered, ribbed-knit base layers, evoking a seductive, subtly automotive allure.

Courtesy of Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Balmain

Balmain's newest collection serves as a homage to French culture, paying tribute to Bordeaux, the cherished hometown of creative director Olivier Rousteing. Drawing inspiration from the famed wine region, the runway showcased an array of luxurious details, from gold grape earrings to grape-shaped clutches, alongside playful snail motifs representing a beloved delicacy of the country. Throughout the collection, Rousteing's signature style shines through, evident in opulent embellishments, exquisite draping, and intricate beading. Tailored trench coats and impeccably tailored suits seamlessly transitioned into angular silhouettes and elegantly draped garments. Notably, the casting featured a refreshing age diversity, with a focus on more mature models, adding a distinctive layer of inclusivity and sophistication to the presentation.

Chloé

Chemena Kamali made her debut at Chloé, embracing real-world dressing with a cool girl persona. Drawing inspiration from the iconic styles of the 1970s, Kamali masterfully juxtaposes elements of toughness and delicacy, echoing the pioneering spirit of Chloé's founder, Gaby Aghion. Cascading ruffles, denim accents, and eye-catching accessories define the signature aesthetic of the collection, whether it's a sheer boho ruffled dress paired with a wool cape or a delicate lingerie-inspired ensemble adorned with platform clogs. With this captivating debut, anticipation mounts for what Kamali will unveil next on the fashion frontier.

Courtesy of Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com

As Paris Fashion Week and fashion month draw to a close, a clear trend emerges: a departure from maximalism towards an embrace of elevated everyday luxury.

Written by Makenna Tourville, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Nicolas Harris, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine

Paris Fashion Week: Fall 2024