Soundtrack and Daniel Lee: Both a ‘Quiet Radical’ in Fashion
Courtesy of Burberry
‘DANIEL LEE’S EXPRESSION OF BURBERRY’ was a line among the few official show notes in his SS24 show in London. Thinking of his creative direction in this way as an ‘expression’ of Burberry, asks the question of what the fashion house is as its own entity. From a cultural perspective, Burberry is regarded as a form of iconic Britishness. A global beacon of a rich heritage. In his recent appointment as creative director, Lee undertook more than simply a luxury brand, he undertook the cultivation of British culture. So, how do you express this in a runway show? Lee, a ‘Quiet Radical’, according to Vogue, decided to use music. The SS24 show can be viewed here.
Courtesy of Burberry
Dean Blunt, a contemporary British artist, provided the soundtrack of specially recorded and unreleased music. His moody, reverb, heavy and stripped back sound accompanied Lee’s ‘English garden flower’ printed dresses, draped trench coats and geometric silhouettes as they appeared on the runway. Through this Lee aimed to create a distinct British feel, and, in turn, an atmospheric and conceptual context for the designs.
Courtesy of Getty Images
The use of soundtrack in runway shows is often an understated component. Frédéric Sanchez, who decided on presenting Prada to Britney's ‘Work Bitch’, explained it as "synthesizing [a fashion designer's] ideas into sound.” Comme des Garçons shows often include more abstract soundtracks, with sounds of crackling wood fires and snippets of Fred Astaire films, all differentiated between looks. The aim to construct an atmosphere and visual concept for a collection that reflects the designer's assertion that they are producing works of art, and that they should be regarded as such. It’s also a way to characterize and individualize a fashion house’s essence.
Acne Studios - Courtesy of Frame Web
Daniel Lee’s decision to define the concept of distinct Britishness with Dean Blunt’s specifically recorded soundtrack has affirmed him as both a quietly radical and analytical creative director, as well as sparked questions surrounding the impact of music in fashion. The ambition to conceptualize a collection with sonic elements leaves us with the understanding of runway shows as art forms in themselves.
Article by Alana Courtney-Gleeson, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Paige Schubert, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
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