Dr. Xi Huang never expected to create the revolutionary skincare line i-On® By Dr. Xi Skincare. Formerly specializing in environmental and occupational medicine; his research eventually led him to the realization that an accumulation of iron plays a major role in the aging process of skin over the years and subsequently to the creation of the luxurious skincare products with an almost perfect 4.9-star rating. We talked to Dr. Huang about this journey, and how the company came to be.

Image courtesy of i-On(R) By Dr. Xi Skincare Photography

I see that you began your career in environmental and occupational medicine; what caused you to transition from this to focus on skincare?
It’s an interesting journey, and the transition was inspired by the Women’s Health Initiative (WHI) study. This study revealed the potential risks of hormone replacement therapy (HRT) for women’s health, sparking my interest in women’s health research. While my early career focused on environmental and occupational medicine, the WHI findings made me realize that I could contribute more by addressing health concerns uniquely affecting women, including skin health. So, part of my focus became skincare, where I could combine science with practical solutions that directly impact women’s daily lives.

What originally drew your attention to iron in particular?
It all started with my Ph.D. research at the University of Paris VII (Paris Diderot). My project was to explore why black lung disease incidence varied so widely among coal mining regions. I hypothesized that the difference came down to variations in oxygen-free radical production from the coal dust in each region. I proved this hypothesis, which could have been the end of my Ph.D. work.

But curiosity got the better of me. I wanted to know what specifically in the coal dust caused these free radicals. After digging deeper—pun intended—I discovered that iron in the coal dust was the main culprit. That discovery shaped my entire career.

Iron became my focus, and over the years, I uncovered how it affects not just lungs but health and aging overall. An interesting twist to this story is my finding that calcite (calcium carbonate) in some coal dusts reduces the bioavailability of iron, leading to lower black lung disease rates. This was a lightbulb moment for me and later inspired the use of pearl powder, a form of calcium carbonate, in my patented De-Ironizing Inducer (DII®) technology for skincare. It’s fascinating how insights from coal mines found their way into beauty products!

How long did it take you to realize the impacts of iron on specifically aging the skin?
The realization was gradual, taking about a decade of research and observation. As a faculty member at a medical school, my work was often shaped by the need to secure research funding. At the time, much of women’s health research was centered on estrogen, so I initially framed my studies around estrogen to gain funding, gradually incorporating iron into the picture. One pivotal finding came from the third National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey (NHANES), which showed that serum ferritin—a marker of stored iron—increased by 200% from pre-menopause to post-menopause. This sharp increase caught my attention. I hypothesized that this accumulation of iron, combined with the decline in estrogen levels, contributed to menopausal symptoms. My work initially focused on breast cancer, then osteoporosis, and ultimately skin aging. Each step was like assembling a puzzle, gradually revealing the role of iron in aging processes.

Interestingly, estrogen levels peak around age 25, and iron accumulation begins to rise at the same time. This means that younger individuals may already have increased iron in their skin, though its effects are more pronounced in midlife when iron levels continue to climb. The rise in iron becomes particularly relevant as women approach menopause, exerting a significant impact on skin aging.

It’s also noteworthy that men excrete iron through their skin, making this mechanism relevant across genders. While menopause serves as a useful model to study these changes, the role of iron in skin health is broader, affecting both younger and older populations. Preventing the buildup of iron early on may be more effective than attempting to reverse its effects later, which underscores the importance of early intervention for maintaining skin health in both men and women.

Is there something you wish you knew earlier on in your journey while creating these products?
Absolutely. If I had known how complex product formulation could be, it might have saved years of effort. Our DII® technology relies on two remarkable ingredients: vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and pearl powder (calcium carbonate). The challenge? These two components are chemically incompatible, making their combination a daunting task.

It took seven years of relentless trial and error to create a stable, effective formulation that not only worked but also felt luxurious on the skin. It was like crafting a gourmet dish—you start with incredible ingredients, but perfecting the recipe takes patience, expertise, and a lot of perseverance.

What’s truly groundbreaking is that, despite the widespread use of both ascorbic acid and pearl powder in skincare, we are the only brand that has successfully combined them into a formulation capable of removing excess iron from the skin’s surface.

This patented technology sets our products apart and represents a significant leap forward in tackling one of the most important underlying contributors to skin aging, photoaging, and uneven skin tone.

What was your process when creating this line? Trial and error? Meticulous testing?
Both, and throw in a global pandemic for good measure. COVID-19 was a significant hurdle during the launch. Clinical trials for our Age-Disrupting Skin Cream and Total Performance Eye Cream had to proceed during the quarantine in February 2021.

While labs were operational, logistics were challenging.

On top of that, the first batch of airless jars had a 30% defect rate. Imagine sending products to beauty magazine editors only to have the dispenser malfunction—it was a PR nightmare. We had to retire the entire batch, which was a financial hit and a missed opportunity to showcase our products.

The clinical trials showed impressive results. What feedback have you received from users outside of the trial?
The feedback has been phenomenal. Our average customer review score is 4.9 out of 5, and our customer repurchase rate is 48%, compared to the industry average of 16%. That says a lot about the quality of our products.

However, expanding our reach is challenging. Our approach is based on new science, and educating consumers about the connection between excess iron and skin aging takes time.

Marketing a novel concept requires not just creativity but also persistence.

How did you feel when you realized your products truly work? Euphoric? Relieved?
A mix of both. As a scientist, there’s immense relief when your hypothesis is validated, especially after years of hard work. But there’s also euphoria—knowing that what you’ve created genuinely improves people’s lives is incredibly rewarding.

How do you educate consumers about the connection between excess iron and aging, given it’s a relatively new concept in skincare?
It’s a challenge. I often use the phrase “aging is rusting” to help consumers understand the connection between excess iron and oxidative stress. More recently, I’ve started saying “stop rusting” to shift the focus to the solution. It’s a work in progress, but the goal is to make the science relatable and easy to understand.

What is a common misconception about skincare that you wish you could dispel?
Two stand out:

1. Antioxidants are enough for anti-aging. They’re not. Antioxidants only neutralize free radicals after they form, often too late to prevent damage.

2. Iron is good for your body and skin. While essential iron is crucial, excess iron is harmful. It generates free radicals, contributes to uneven skin tone, and reacts with UV rays to accelerate photoaging. This is why removing excess iron from the skin, especially in exposed areas like the face and neck, is so important.

Do you ever consider pivoting back to a more medical path, or are you content with your current direction?
I’m intrigued by the idea of integrating more medical insights into skincare. For example, hematologists—who specialize in blood and iron disorders—could play a key role in understanding and addressing iron’s impact on skin health. Rather than competing in dermatologists’ offices, which are often saturated, we’re exploring collaborations with hematologists. The connection between blood health and skin health offers exciting possibilities.

Is there anything new in the works for i-On that you can share?
Yes! We’re developing iron-rebalancing capsules to address systemic iron imbalances. As we age, chronic inflammation leads to low iron in the blood but high iron in tissues, contributing to fatigue and pain. Our capsules aim to restore balance by targeting the body’s iron-regulating hormone, hepcidin.

Where do you see skincare technology going in the future?
The future of skincare lies in scientifically advanced, clinically proven solutions. Marketing alone won’t be enough to gain consumer trust. Skin is the body’s largest organ, and it deserves the same level of evidence-based care as any other part of the body. Products that go beyond antioxidants and deliver measurable results will shape the industry moving forward.

Website: https://ionskincare.com

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ionskincare/

Article by Logan Dutra, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Robin Chou, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine

From Coal Mines to Skincare: How Iron Holds the Key to Youthful Skin