Helen Anthony FW'25: Duality in Motion
The runway at Helen Anthony's Fall Winter 2025-26 presentation transformed into a living canvas where opposites not only attracted but merged into harmonious visual poetry. Models of all ages, sizes, and genders moved through the space with purpose, their silhouettes casting dramatic shadows against the stark backdrop – a perfect metaphor for the collection's Gemini-inspired theme of duality.
Opening and closing with the designer's daughter – an intimate, personal touch that transformed the runway into a family narrative – the show immediately established itself as boundary-breaking. The collection unfolded as a conversation between nature's divinity and human ingenuity, with exaggerated silhouettes juxtaposed against minimalist pieces in a rhythmic visual cadence that photographers found irresistible.
"This is a combination between nature created by God and human innovation," explains the designer. "You see in this collection loads of art created through human imagination, inspired by natural elements like animal prints and flowers, but executed in a sustainable way."
Standout looks included voluminous hand-knitted pieces that command attention through their architectural structure yet invite touch through their tactile British yarn. These garments aren't merely worn; they photograph as wearable sculptures, with the camera capturing the interplay of light and shadow across their intricate surfaces.
The craftsmanship behind each piece tells its own visual story – meticulous tailoring reveals itself in razor sharp lines that contrast with flowing, gender-fluid silhouettes. Skirts on male models and exaggerated proportions further challenged conventional fashion photography, creating moments of visual tension that translate beautifully to editorial pages.
Sustainability forms both the foundation and frontier of the collection, with the designer firmly stating, "We don't use real fur at all." Instead, synthetic alternatives reimagine luxury with responsibility, adding textural interest that photographs with remarkable depth and dimension.
What truly distinguishes this collection is its embodiment of London's diversity – a value reflected not only in the designs but in the casting itself. "This represents London, one of the world's most diverse cities," the designer notes. "The collection speaks of craftsmanship, diversity, and freedom."
As the last model exited the runway at The Londoner Hotel, what remained was a powerful visual statement about fashion's capacity to capture contrasting forces in a single frame – tradition meeting innovation, structure embracing fluidity, and nature inspiring human creation. Through the lens, Helen Anthony's Gemini Collection isn't just photographed; it's immortalized as a study in beautiful contradiction.
Article by Aaayush Anima Aggarwal, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Photography by Irina
Tearsheets by Robin Chou, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
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