PAUL COSTELLOE: PARISIAN DREAMS IN WATERCOLOR STROKES
Dawn broke over London as the fashion crowd gathered at the Waldorf Hotel—an early reveille for the first major show of the day. Against a backdrop of expressive brushstrokes in muted grays, reds, and golds that resembled a massive abstract canvas, Paul Costelloe unveiled his Spring/Summer 2025 collection, aptly titled "Le ciel est bleu."
The venue itself became a living gallery—a pristine white platform showcasing models against striking painted panels that served not merely as backdrop but as visual counterpoint to the collection. This juxtaposition created a photographer's dream: structured garments against fluid abstraction, a harmony of controlled chaos that photographed magnificently from every angle.
The collection began with earthy olive greens, creating a strong foundation that photographed with remarkable depth against the abstract backdrop. Heritage-inspired tweeds and structured silhouettes established Costelloe's narrative from the start, each look building visual momentum as the show progressed.
"I wanted to create a collection that feels like Paris in spring," Costelloe shared backstage. "That moment when the city awakens and there's possibility in the air."
As the visual narrative evolved, burnished golds and rich textures emerged. These country-inspired pieces carried subtle luminosity through the thoughtful styling and complementary accessories mentioned in the press release—Angela Brady's iridescent jewelry pieces adding delicate focal points that drew the lens naturally, while the soft watercolor-hued "Paul Costelloe Bags" completed each look with considered precision.
Most captivating was Costelloe's masterful play of proportions—cropped jackets with exaggerated shoulders paired with pleated micro-skirts, creating dynamic lines that transformed as models moved across the white runway platform. These architectural silhouettes, particularly a standout olive tweed cape ensemble, created dramatic shadows that shifted with movement, delighting photographers seeking that perfect transitional moment.
The collection's crescendo came through the William Costelloe-designed floral prints in autumnal amber and rust, photographing like vintage postcards come to life. A high-necked, sleeveless dress with full skirt captured this essence perfectly—simultaneously nostalgic and contemporary, it created a visual paradox that begged to be captured from multiple angles.
For his finale, Costelloe presented the show's crown jewel—a vivid fuchsia gown with sculptural ruffles that commanded the room. Its saturated color captured the eye like a sudden brushstroke across a blank canvas. The dramatic silhouette—cinched at the waist and blooming outward—created negative space that photographers instinctively framed, the model appearing to float against the abstracted background, closing the visual story with dramatic flourish.
Beyond the clothes themselves, Costelloe's debut bridal and hosiery lines added textural layers that enriched the photographic quality of the collection—the intricate patterned tights creating a second skin that added depth and dimensionality to each frame.
As morning light streamed through the Waldorf's windows, the collection revealed itself as something beyond fashion—it was a painter's interpretation of Parisian romance, rendered in textile and form, each look a photograph waiting to happen. In Costelloe's words: still seeking the Golden Fleece, he has instead created golden moments, perfectly framed for those lucky enough to witness—and photograph—his Parisian dream.
Article by Aaayush Anima Aggarwal, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Photography by Olu Ogunshakin
Tearsheets by Robin Chou, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
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