RAY CHU A/W25: THE ETERNAL RESILIENCE OF BLUE CYPRESS
The industrial space of London Fashion Week's NEWGEN venue transformed into a mystical forest as Ray Chu unveiled his A/W25 collection. Models emerged through gentle wisps of fog that lingered between structural set pieces mimicking the elegant silhouettes of Blue Cypress trees, their forms casting long shadows across the concrete floor. The stark contrast between the urban setting and the natural inspiration created a visual narrative before the first look even appeared.
"This collection is inspired by Blue Cypress, which is meaningful because 'cypress' is also my name in Chinese," Chu explained backstage. "It represents resilience, being strong, and hopefully powerful in the future." This personal connection infused the collection with an intimate quality that photographers captured in the quiet determination visible on each model's face.
The standout visual moments came through Chu's innovative 3D printing techniques that recreated the intricate structure and organic flow of Cypress trees. These sculptural elements photographed dramatically against the minimal backdrop, creating compositions where shadow and light emphasized the textural details. One particularly striking look featured a deep blue structural piece that seemed to grow organically from the shoulder, catching light in a way that revealed intricate patterns mimicking tree bark.
Taiwanese fabric innovation took center stage through materials that photograph with unusual depth and dimension. "We're working with different fabric factories that are strong with sustainable fabrics, using cocoa nuts, bamboo fibers, and water chestnuts," Chu noted. These materials from Grandetex and Everest Textile Co. created rich visual textures that transformed under the photographers' flashes, revealing subtle color shifts between indigo, teal, and midnight blue.
Chu's signature sequin pinstripes and colorful vegan leather pieces provided moments of visual punctuation throughout the collection. The designer has elevated his approach while maintaining his brand's core aesthetic, producing what he describes as "a little bit more elevated, something more likely a little bit slow" compared to previous seasons' disco-inspired aesthetics.
The diverse casting reflected Chu's inclusive ethos: "As our brand is always inclusive, and as part of the LGBTQ community, we want everyone to know they are seen, and they can wear our clothes. There are definitely more than two genders."
As the final look disappeared behind the Cypress-inspired set, what remained was the image of a designer successfully translating personal heritage into visual poetry – a photographic journey through resilience and natural beauty that speaks to both Taiwanese tradition and contemporary sustainability.
Article by Aaayush Anima Aggarwal, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Photography by Aaayush Anima Aggarwal, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Robin Chou, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
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