Schiaparelli F/W Womenswear 2025
Duality: an ever-present quality in a woman’s life, and as such, one that inspired Daniel Roseberry’s “Lone Star” collection at Schiaparelli’s F/W show in Paris earlier this month. Cognizant that men are rarely ever the source of a woman’s desire to dress up, Roseberry wanted to play on typically masculine and feminine silhouettes and fabrics, both juxtaposing and combining them to create something new. “That tension, between the masculine and feminine, between submission and control, between extravagance and rigor, gives this collection its frisson,” Roseberry says of this dynamic. “What looks hard is soft, and vice-versa.”
How is this reflected in the clothes themselves? Sharp corners, masculine shapes, and solid materials are rounded or applied to unexpected details, like tooled leather on bags and belts, or a clutch with leather that glints like beaten copper. An homage to Roseberry’s Texas roots, hallmarks of western style permeate the collection, serving to toughen up some of the looks with a little cowboy edge. Belts with chunky gold buckles are stacked atop each other and layered over gowns and denim alike, while the iconic Soufflé bag is now adorned with hundreds of studs. The Red Wing cowboy boot, duster coat, and bow-legged jean, all classic ranch attire, find their way into the collection as well, morphing to align with the dichotomy found in the collection as a whole. A knee-length black leather jacket features long fringe stemming from its sleeves and hemline, reflecting the idea that a great deal “of the playfulness of this collection comes from its juxtapositions, trompe l’oeil mischief, and unexpected dimensions.”
Roseberry adds a final, deeper note about the collection’s origins – a ponderance on the meaning of life. Tiring of social media and the digital sphere, many are wondering what truly matters; to him, it is a recognition of those things that are precious and unreplicable. This is where the collection’s name, “Lone Star,” comes into play, with a hope that each piece is unique and representative of individuality, just like the women who will wear them.
Article by Logan Dutra, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Photos courtesy of Schiaparelli
Tearsheets by Robin Chou, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
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