McQueen A/W 2025: Dandyism Reimagined
McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 2025 show is reminiscent of eras long past: a dark London night, opulent and shimmering as models strode down a runway of deep wood to a haunting blend of nineteenth century strings and contemporary music. Creative Director Seán McGirr drew heavily upon the image and spirit of the Victorian dandy, with gold embroidery, smooth silks, and floral lace all adorning garments that evoke (and subvert) classic British tailoring. These elements contrast with inky black pieces, which in turn juxtapose ruffled cream silk numbers, vibrant red gowns, and cascading dresses in hues of mint and purple.
Despite the grandiosity, there remains an element of mystery that plays about the edges of the show. Philip Treacy’s angular hats and crystalline masks by Matthew Empringham and Frederic Coomes obscure parts of models’ faces, and a few exaggerated Victorian-style ruffs do the same. Tying them all together, however, is the feeling of somehow having traveled through time. Otherworldly silhouettes paired with unexpected sheerness or leather give the pieces some contemporary edginess that still holds dandyism at its core.
The models carry McQueen bags to compliment each look, with three styles seen across looks. Firstly comes the T-Bar Sling bag, a structured cross-body style with a glistening T-Bar buckle, followed by the spherical Drop bag, whose pearlescent finish boasts crystal mirror embroidery. Finally, the black and oxblood Farringdon bags are crafted from soft leather with a McQueen harness detail.
The inspiration drawn from artists and writers like Oscar Wilde, Vesta Tilley, and Romaine Brooks, and Victorian imagery, is expounded upon through the crystal-encrusted nature designs found in both embroidery and jewelry throughout the collection. The footwear, meanwhile, features dramatic pointed toes and a wide variety of colors to either match or contrast with the look with which they are paired.
Anyone able to pull their eyes away from the clothing was likely agape at the stunning Victorian architecture, intercepted by a glowing installation by Tony-award winning artist Tom Scutt.
Article by Logan Dutra, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Photos courtesy of McQueen
Tearsheets by Robin Chou, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
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