Emotional Spectrum: Tara Kari and Alex S. Yu at Global Fashion Collective
The industrial expanse of Protein Studios in Shoreditch transformed into a canvas of human emotion as Global Fashion Collective, an international platform dedicated to showcasing innovative designers, presented its F/W'25 runway show during London Fashion Week. Working in collaboration with Fashion Scout, GFC brought Finnish designer Tara Kari and Canadian-Taiwanese designer Alex S. Yu to London's fashion stage, continuing its mission of cultivating an inclusive and diverse fashion industry. The concrete floors and exposed beams created a striking counterpoint to the vivid expressions of Finnish designer Tara Kari's fiery "OUTRAGED" collection and Canadian-Taiwanese designer Alex S. Yu's journey from "nightmare to daydream" in his "Interlude 3688."
Under dramatic lighting that shifted from crimson heat to ethereal pastels, the collections offered a masterclass in the visual language of emotional extremes. Together, they captured the full spectrum of human feeling—from Kari's suppressed anger to Yu's optimistic joy.
"This collection is inspired by social pressure, when you feel pulled in a million different directions," Kari explained backstage. Her "OUTRAGED" collection materialized this concept through structured yet fractured silhouettes, as if the garments themselves were experiencing emotional rupture. Black textured pieces featuring literal cracks revealed glimpses of crimson underneath—photographing like lava erupting through volcanic rock.
The collection's signature accessories—wooden wine-carrying handbags and rope-encircled boots— provided visual anchors while reinforcing Kari's sustainability focus. "Everything is handmade," she emphasized. "The bags and jewelry are made from wood. I'm trying to find materials other than PVC or polyester—as much as possible, natural fibers."
Particularly captivating was a hand-knitted woolen net ensemble dyed deep red, creating the illusion of skin erupting in emotion. Another standout featured spherical protrusions beneath textured surfaces. "It's the feeling when something is about to come out," Kari noted. "The balls represent things trapped inside."
In striking contrast, Yu's collection began in darkness before transitioning to optimistic light. "The collection is inspired by falling through the rabbit hole, going to the nightmare, and then the daydream," Yu shared. "The color palette goes from blacks to reds and blues, then shifts to more optimistic pastel colors."
A London College of Fashion alum celebrating his tenth anniversary, Yu's mastery of technique was evident in his ability to blend softness with disruption. Iridescent fabrics caught the light magnificently as models moved, while sheer ruffled garments created dreamlike silhouettes that photographed with ethereal dimension. The collection's plaid and gingham patterns provided structural counterpoints to abstract floral embellishments that seemed to float above the garments.
"I want people to feel a little bit more cheerful when they see my collection," Yu explained of his intention. When asked how his joyful work related to Kari's exploration of anger, he thoughtfully responded, "It just shows the multiple emotions of humans. Some days you can be angry, some days happy—but it's all human."
The final walkthrough presented a powerful visual metaphor—Kari's models embodying the beauty of confronting one's truth, followed by Yu's formation led by the designer himself, a celebration of resilience and optimism. Together, they offered not just fashion, but a photographic meditation on the full range of human experience—proving that both outrage and joy, when authentically expressed, create images of unforgettable power.
Article by Aaayush Anima Aggarwal, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Photography by Go Runway
Tearsheets by Robin Chou, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
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